ffionas notes

CÔTE BISTRO

The big chill is upon us, and what better way to thaw out than by tucking into a cooked breakfast, preferably cooked by someone else, and a cup of fresh, hot coffee? So as you slip and slide on the icy wastes of Kensington High Street, skate off towards Kensington Court to Côte Bistro. Open from 8am on weekdays and 9am on weekends, they offer a breakfast menu par excellance! Everything you would expect is here and a bit more.
For me the gold standard of a brunch is the cooked breakfast. Will the scrambled eggs be “nuked”? Will the cooked tomatoes actually be cooked and if so will they have any taste? Will the bangers be too full of bread and not much pork and then there’s the coffee to consider. The list goes on and on…believe me when I say that breakfast is an exact science. Eggs can overcook or go cold in the blink of an eye. A restaurant packed with  “brunchers”, hungry for eggs is a daunting task.
Alors! Côte’s full English comprises: a pork sausage, back bacon, a grilled plum tomato, two eggs, button mushrooms and toast. I opted for scrambled eggs and they were perfect. Suprisingly they were not microwaved, this must be one of the only places in Kensington that actually scrambles their eggs. It’s really not difficult and the result was creamy, fluffy, delicious eggs…… full marks! The tomatoes were tasty and properly cooked, the fat on the bacon was crispy and the sausage was one of the best I’ve had. Packed with pork and herbs and full of flavour. However, the toast was a real let down, bog standard sliced bread, not properly toasted, chewy and damp, it didn’t match the standard of the rest of the meal.
We also tried the Crêpe Complète, a traditional Breton crêpe folded to lovingly embrace two perfectly fried eggs and bacon. A touch of béchamel sauce and the crowning glory…..grated Gruyère cheese it was delicious and a welcome and unusual twist to a menu that can suffer from universal sameness. Also on offer is sauage/bacon baguette, eggs benedict and croque monsieur/madame.
The coffee is sublime and joy of joys it’s served in a normal sized cup. So, you can have two deliciously hot coffees instead of a bucket of tepid, diluted slop that is served in too many restaurants.
Breakfast is personal, everyone has their preferences and Côte suits mine perfectly.


Full English Breakfast £7.50
Crêpe Complète £5.90
Café Americain £1.95

CÔTE BISTRO
47, Kensington Court
London W8 5DA
020 7938 4784



Copyright © Ffiona Reid-Owen (2010)

HOLY COW

On arrival at the Gaucho Grill in Swallow Street you realize one thing, it’s all about the cow. They cut it, they grill it, they mince it, they even have the skins up on the walls, a carnivore’s paradise. Even on a Monday night they were packed, however we weren’t rushed or hassled in any way. The service was slick, polished and professional.
The menu is big in both choice and size, (it’s huge), and offers plenty of alternatives to beef. Choose from:  Patagonian sea bass, chicken and a full range of traditional ceviche dishes. Raw fish/shellfish that are “cooked” by marinating in citrus juices,  promoting a process called denaturation. Which, like cooking with heat, unravels the molecules and alters their chemical and physical properties, turning the flesh firm and opaque………blah…blah…blah. You simply tune out, let’s face it, if you go to the The Gaucho Grill, you go for one thing only, a big, fat, Argentinian steak.
The formula is simple, there are four cuts, three sizes and four sauces to choose from. Needless to say there is a “fatties platter”, (my words, not theirs), on offer, which is basically all four cuts on one plate, a cardiologist’s nightmare.
We both ordered the 8oz Bife de Chorizo, (sirloin steak), and they were excellent, everything a good steak should be. The fat was yellow and sweet, the meat was tender and juicy, packed with flavour and cooked as ordered, pink throughout. Erika opted for peppercorn sauce and I chose the bernaise, again they were delicious. 
The steaks  are the star  attraction here and come unadorned, no chips, salad, or even a garnish, so we added both and they were equally good.  All of this was washed down with a couple of glasses of their house Sangiovese  which was smooth, rich and buttery. It was a delight and I couldn’t fault any of it. I was not paying the bill however, and I would imagine that this is not the most cost effective Monday night supper. Hell! If you want the best you don’t beef about the cost!
Five out of five for: food, service and  ambiance, I’ll be straight back here when I need my next bloody fix.

THE GAUCHO GRILL
25, SWALLOW STREET
LONDON W1B 4QR
020 7734 4040
www.gauchorestaurants.co.uk

Copyright © Ffiona Reid-Owen (2009)